A Step-by-Step Guide to
Changing Your Car’s Oil
One of the most impactful things you can do for your engine — and one of the most achievable DIY tasks. We’ll walk you through every step clearly and honestly.
Changing your oil is the single most important thing you can do to extend your engine’s life — and it’s one of the few jobs where doing it yourself saves real money every time, not just once.
Before you begin
The most common mistake first-timers make is starting without everything to hand. An oil change mid-way is messy, inconvenient, and can damage your engine if it sits too long with the drain plug out. Get everything ready before you touch the car.
Check your owner’s manual — or the sticker inside your driver’s door — for two critical pieces of information: the correct oil specification (e.g. 5W-30 full synthetic) and the correct oil capacity (typically 4–6 litres for most passenger cars). Using the wrong oil grade can be worse than not changing it at all.
Tools & materials
Before you begin, lay out everything you need. Missing one item mid-job is frustrating and potentially messy.
Safety first
Before starting, make sure your car is parked on a completely level surface with the engine cool — hot oil can cause serious burns. Engage the parking brake and chock the wheels if you’re raising the vehicle.
If you need to raise the car, never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use proper jack stands or drive-up ramps rated for your vehicle’s weight.
Step-by-step oil change
Follow these steps in order. Skipping steps or rushing is how leaks and mistakes happen.
If your car’s ground clearance isn’t enough to work underneath comfortably, raise it with a jack and secure it on rated jack stands — or drive the front wheels onto ramps. Once the car is safe and secure, place your drain pan directly beneath the oil drain plug. The plug is typically on the lowest point of the engine oil pan.
Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine’s oil pan. Using the correct wrench size (typically 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm — check your manual), loosen the plug counterclockwise. Once loose, switch to your hand to unscrew it the rest of the way, keeping the drain pan positioned to catch the stream of oil. The oil will initially come out fast — be ready for it to arc outward before falling straight down.
Allow the oil to drain fully. This takes 5–10 minutes. Don’t rush it — residual old oil left in the pan mixes with your fresh oil immediately.
While the oil drains, locate the oil filter — it’s usually on the side or bottom of the engine, a cylindrical canister about the size of a coffee mug. Move your drain pan under the filter as well, as residual oil will spill when it’s removed. Use an oil filter wrench to break the initial seal, then unscrew it by hand. Tip the filter upright as you remove it to minimise spilling.
Before installing the new filter, dip your finger in fresh oil and lightly lubricate the rubber O-ring around the filter’s rim. This ensures a proper seal and makes the filter easier to remove at the next oil change. Screw the new filter on by hand — hand tight only. Over-tightening can damage the O-ring or crack the filter housing.
Once all the old oil has finished draining, clean the drain plug and the surrounding area on the oil pan with a rag. If you have a new crush washer, fit it now. Thread the drain plug back in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a wrench to the manufacturer’s torque spec. Do not overtighten — you can strip the threads on the oil pan, which is an expensive repair.
Open the bonnet and locate the oil filler cap — it usually has an oil can symbol and is on top of the engine. Remove it, place a funnel in the opening, and pour in the correct amount of new oil as specified in your owner’s manual. Pour slowly and in stages — it’s much easier to add more than to remove excess. Most cars take 4–6 litres, but confirm for your specific engine.
Replace the oil filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for 30–60 seconds — during this time watch the oil pressure warning light, it should go out within a few seconds. Turn the engine off and wait 2–3 minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again. The oil level should sit between the minimum and maximum marks. If it’s low, add oil in small amounts and check again.
Wipe down any oil residue from around the filler cap area and engine bay. Lower the car if raised. Clean your tools and dispose of oily rags properly.
Most importantly — never pour used oil down a drain or into the bin. It’s illegal in most jurisdictions and environmentally harmful. Take it to an auto parts store, a recycling centre, or a quick-lube shop — most accept used oil for free.
Recycle your used oil — it’s the law in most states
Used motor oil never wears out — it just gets dirty. One gallon of used oil can contaminate one million gallons of fresh water. Auto parts stores (AutoZone, O’Reilly, Advance) accept used oil for free. Find your nearest drop-off at earth911.com.
How much you save
Here’s a realistic cost comparison between DIY and a shop oil change for a typical passenger car using full synthetic oil.
| Item | DIY cost | Shop cost | You save |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full synthetic oil (5 litres) | $28–$38 | Included | — |
| Oil filter | $8–$15 | Included | — |
| Drain plug washer | $1–$2 | Included | — |
| Total | $37–$55 | $80–$120 | $30–$70 per change |
| Over 10 oil changes | $370–$550 | $800–$1,200 | $430–$650 total |